Manufacturing, Engineering and Technology Fabrication and Extraction

Hand Shaping Diamond Gemstones Fancy Cut Techniques Training

SAQA US 110223 | NQF 3 | Credits 21 | Duration 18 Days
From $3,040 per delegate

Description

This course equips learners with the advanced skills required to hand shape diamond gemstones into fancy cuts, such as princess, emerald, and marquise shapes. Participants will master the techniques of marking, bruting, and polishing to produce high-value finished stones.

Learning Outcomes

  • Analyse rough diamond characteristics to determine optimal fancy cut shapes.
  • Apply marking and bruting techniques to shape diamonds into specified fancy cuts.
  • Demonstrate faceting and polishing procedures to achieve precise angles and symmetry.
  • Evaluate finished stones against industry quality standards for brilliance and proportion.
  • Implement safety protocols for handling and shaping diamond gemstones.
  • Design a cutting plan that maximises yield while adhering to fancy cut specifications.

Target Audience

This course is designed for diamond cutters, gemologists, and jewellery artisans seeking to specialise in fancy cut diamond shaping. It is also suitable for apprentices in the diamond industry who have basic lapidary experience.

Prerequisites

None — open enrollment.

Course Outline

Day 1: Introduction to Fancy Cut Diamond Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand the scope and outcomes of the course
• Identify different types of fancy cuts (e.g., princess, emerald, oval, pear, marquise)
• Explain the importance of diamond symmetry and proportions
• Recognise the tools and equipment used in hand shaping

Topics:
• Course overview and assessment criteria
• Diamond anatomy and crystallography
• Overview of fancy cut categories
• Principles of symmetry and proportion
• Introduction to dop sticks, hand pieces, and scaifes
• Safety procedures in the workshop

Day 2: Diamond Properties and Cleavage Planning

Objectives:
• Describe diamond hardness, cleavage, and grain direction
• Plan cutting layout to maximise yield and minimise inclusions
• Use a loupe and microscope to assess rough diamond quality
• Mark reference lines for sawing or cleaving

Topics:
• Diamond hardness and cleavage planes
• Grain direction and its effect on shaping
• Inclusion mapping and yield optimisation
• Loupe and microscope techniques
• Marking and scribing methods
• Cleaving vs. sawing decisions

Day 3: Sawing and Cleaving Rough Diamonds

Objectives:
• Set up and operate a diamond saw correctly
• Execute cleaving along grain lines
• Apply safe handling and clamping techniques
• Inspect sawn/cleaved surfaces for quality

Topics:
• Diamond saw types and blade selection
• Sawing parameters: speed, pressure, lubrication
• Cleaving hammer and chisel technique
• Clamping and orientation
• Post-sawing inspection
• Troubleshooting common sawing defects

Day 4: Introduction to Bruting and Girdle Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand the purpose of bruting to create a round or fancy outline
• Operate a bruting machine safely
• Shape a rough diamond into a preform for fancy cuts
• Measure girdle thickness and roundness

Topics:
• Bruting machine components and setup
• Hand bruting vs. mechanical bruting
• Creating a girdle outline for fancy shapes
• Girdle thickness standards
• Measuring with callipers and gauges
• Safety precautions during bruting

Day 5: Faceting Theory and Angle Calculations

Objectives:
• Explain facet geometry: crown, pavilion, girdle
• Calculate angles for common fancy cuts
• Use a faceting machine protractor
• Understand light performance and critical angle

Topics:
• Facet nomenclature and symmetry
• Crown and pavilion angle calculations
• Critical angle and total internal reflection
• Faceting machine parts and adjustments
• Protractor and cheater use
• Angle verification techniques

Day 6: Crown Faceting – Main and Star Facets

Objectives:
• Cut crown main facets on a practice stone
• Cut star facets and adjust angles
• Align facets to meet at girdle
• Polish crown facets to a mirror finish

Topics:
• Crown main facet sequence
• Star facet placement and proportions
• Facet alignment and symmetry checks
• Polishing techniques for crown facets
• Common crown defects and corrections
• Practice on quartz or CZ

Day 7: Pavilion Faceting – Main and Lower Half Facets

Objectives:
• Cut pavilion main facets with correct angles
• Add lower half facets for light return
• Ensure pavilion depth is within tolerance
• Polish pavilion facets

Topics:
• Pavilion main facet cutting order
• Lower half facet angles and placement
• Depth percentage and windowing avoidance
• Polishing pavilion facets
• Inspection for symmetry and finish
• Practice on synthetic material

Day 8: Girdle Faceting and Final Shaping

Objectives:
• Cut and polish girdle facets (if required)
• Shape the girdle outline to final dimensions
• Blend girdle with crown and pavilion
• Measure final stone dimensions

Topics:
• Girdle faceting techniques
• Girdle thickness optimisation
• Final outline shaping
• Blending girdle with crown/pavilion
• Calliper and gauge measurements
• Weight estimation calculations

Day 9: Princess Cut – Step-by-Step Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand princess cut geometry (square modified brilliant)
• Lay out and cut a princess cut in synthetic material
• Achieve correct chevron patterns on pavilion
• Polish all facets to a high finish

Topics:
• Princess cut proportions and angles
• Pavilion chevron facet arrangement
• Crown facet layout for princess
• Cutting sequence and cheater use
• Symmetry checks
• Practice on CZ or quartz

Day 10: Emerald Cut – Step-by-Step Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand emerald cut geometry (step cut)
• Lay out and cut an emerald cut in synthetic material
• Achieve parallel step facets with clean lines
• Polish step facets without rounding edges

Topics:
• Emerald cut proportions and angle requirements
• Step facet cutting order
• Crown and pavilion step layout
• Maintaining sharp facet junctions
• Polish techniques for step cuts
• Practice on synthetic stone

Day 11: Oval and Pear Cut – Step-by-Step Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand oval and pear cut geometry
• Shape and facet an oval cut in synthetic material
• Shape and facet a pear cut in synthetic material
• Address bow-tie effect in oval cuts

Topics:
• Oval proportions and facet arrangement
• Pear cut proportions and symmetry
• Bow-tie effect minimisation
• Girdle shaping for curved outlines
• Crown and pavilion facet adaptation
• Practice on two synthetic stones

Day 12: Marquise and Heart Cut – Step-by-Step Shaping

Objectives:
• Understand marquise and heart cut geometry
• Shape and facet a marquise cut in synthetic material
• Shape and facet a heart cut in synthetic material
• Manage pointed tips and curved lobes

Topics:
• Marquise proportions and facet layout
• Heart cut proportions and cleft shaping
• Point and lobe polishing techniques
• Symmetry and balance checks
• Practice on two synthetic stones

Day 13: Advanced Fancy Cuts – Cushion, Radiant, Trilliant

Objectives:
• Understand cushion, radiant, and trilliant cut geometries
• Cut one advanced fancy cut in synthetic material
• Modify facet angles for unique shapes
• Evaluate light performance

Topics:
• Cushion cut – modified brilliant with rounded corners
• Radiant cut – rectangular with trimmed corners
• Trilliant cut – triangular brilliant
• Angle modifications for each shape
• Light performance assessment
• Practice on one advanced shape

Day 14: Polishing Techniques and Surface Finish

Objectives:
• Apply advanced polishing techniques for diamond
• Use different polishing compounds (e.g., diamond powder)
• Achieve scratch-free, high-lustre surfaces
• Inspect facets under magnification for defects

Topics:
• Polishing compounds and their selection
• Scaife conditioning and speed settings
• Hand polishing vs. machine polishing
• Common polishing defects (e.g., burning, scratching)
• Microscopic inspection methods
• Correction of polishing errors

Day 15: Quality Control and Grading of Fancy Cuts

Objectives:
• Apply grading criteria for fancy cut diamonds (symmetry, polish, proportions)
• Use measuring tools (callipers, gauge, microscope)
• Identify and document defects (e.g., windowing, extinction)
• Assign a quality grade based on industry standards

Topics:
• Grading standards for fancy cuts
• Symmetry evaluation using proportion scope
• Polish quality assessment
• Inclusion visibility and clarity grading
• Light performance analysis
• Documentation and reporting

Day 16: Repair and Recutting of Fancy Cut Diamonds

Objectives:
• Assess a damaged fancy cut diamond for recutting potential
• Plan a repair or recutting strategy
• Execute a minor repair (e.g., repolish a chip)
• Recut a diamond to improve proportions

Topics:
• Damage assessment and yield analysis
• Repair vs. recut decision-making
• Repolishing chipped facets
• Recutting to improve symmetry or weight
• Minimising weight loss
• Practice on damaged synthetic stones

Day 17: Practical Integration – Cutting a Complete Fancy Cut Diamond

Objectives:
• Plan and execute the full cutting process on a natural or synthetic diamond
• Apply all steps from rough to finished stone
• Manage time and resources efficiently
• Produce a polished fancy cut stone meeting quality standards

Topics:
• Rough planning and yield estimation
• Sawing/cleaving, bruting, faceting sequence
• Crown and pavilion cutting
• Final polishing and inspection
• Time management strategies
• Troubleshooting during cutting

Day 18: Final Assessment and Course Review

Objectives:
• Complete a practical assessment by cutting a fancy cut diamond
• Present finished stone for grading
• Review course content and address gaps
• Receive feedback and certification guidance

Topics:
• Practical assessment – cut a princess, emerald, or oval
• Grading of finished stone
• Course review and Q&A
• Career pathways in diamond cutting
• Certification process and portfolio requirements
• Course evaluation

Practicals

108 hours of practicals To be conducted online or on-campus or in-house
Overview

Practical sessions form the core of this course, allowing learners to apply theoretical knowledge to real diamond shaping. Under expert supervision, learners progress from basic sawing and bruting to faceting and polishing a variety of fancy cuts, culminating in a final assessed stone.

Practical Activities
  • Foundational Shaping Techniques — Learners practice sawing, cleaving, and bruting on synthetic diamonds and low-grade natural diamonds to develop safe and accurate handling skills. (16h)
  • Faceting and Polishing Practice — Learners cut and polish crown and pavilion facets on synthetic stones, starting with simple round brilliants before progressing to fancy shapes. (32h)
  • Fancy Cut Shape Mastery — Learners cut a series of fancy cuts (princess, emerald, oval, pear, marquise, heart) on synthetic stones, focusing on shape-specific geometry and facet arrangements. (40h)
  • Advanced Techniques and Final Assessment — Learners perform advanced polishing, repair a damaged stone, and complete a full cutting project on a natural diamond for final assessment. (20h)

Summatives

Each delegate is assessed continuously throughout the course via daily exercises, scored practical assignments, and a final summative test at the end.

Practical Assignments — 30%

Practical assignments are observed and scored against a rubric during the practical sessions. Each delegate's practical mark is averaged into a single 100% score and contributes 30% to the final total.

Daily Exercises — 20%

Every training day ends with a multiple-choice exercise scored out of 100%. The scores from each daily exercise are averaged across the duration of the course to produce a Daily Average mark, which contributes 20% to the final total.

Final Test — 50%

On the last day a final summative test is written. It is a multiple-choice paper with multiple-answer questions: each question may have more than one correct option, and a single wrong selection on a question marks the entire question wrong — no partial credit. The final test is scored out of 100% and contributes 50% to the overall mark.

Final Total
Component Out of Weight
Practical Assignments (rubric-scored) 100% 30%
Daily Average (multiple choice) 100% 20%
Final Test (multi-answer multiple choice) 100% 50%
Final Total 100%

All marks are recorded on the AATICD LMS and visible to each learner under their account.

Certificate

Certificate of Completion

Awarded to delegates who achieve an overall mark of 50% or higher on the Final Total (Practicals 30% + Daily Average 20% + Final Test 50%).

How it works
  • Certificates are auto-generated on the AATICD LMS as soon as the marks pass the 50% threshold.
  • Each certificate is a branded PDF with the delegate's name, the course title, the unit standard ID, NQF level, credits, and the date of issue.
  • You can download or print your certificate from your LMS dashboard at any time after issue — there's no reissue fee and no expiry date.
  • If you scored under 50% you can sit the final test again at the next scheduled session at no extra cost.
Where to find it

Sign in to the LMS, open your dashboard, and your certificates appear under My Certificates. Each entry has a View / Download button and a print option.

Training Discounts

Group discounts apply automatically — the more delegates you enrol, the greater the saving. Discounts are calculated at 3% per 5 delegates, scaling up to 40% off for 100+ delegates.

Delegates Discount
5 3% off
10 6% off
15 9% off
20 12% off
25 15% off
30 18% off
50 30% off
75 35% off
100 40% off

3% discount per 5 delegates, up to 40% off for 100+ delegates. Contact us for a custom group quote.

Upcoming Training Sessions
Online training — attend live sessions from anywhere via our virtual classroom.
Start End Delivery Season Price Action
Fri 11 Sep 2026 Tue 06 Oct 2026 Virtual Spring 2026 $3,040 Register
Thu 01 Oct 2026 Mon 26 Oct 2026 Virtual Spring 2026 $3,040 Register
Wed 21 Oct 2026 Fri 13 Nov 2026 Virtual Spring 2026 $3,040 Register
Wed 09 Dec 2026 Fri 01 Jan 2027 Virtual Summer 2026 $3,040 Register
Tue 12 Jan 2027 Thu 04 Feb 2027 Virtual Summer 2026 $3,040 Register
Mon 15 Feb 2027 Wed 10 Mar 2027 Virtual Summer 2026 $3,040 Register
Fri 05 Mar 2027 Tue 30 Mar 2027 Virtual Autumn 2027 $3,040 Register
Thu 11 Mar 2027 Mon 05 Apr 2027 Virtual Autumn 2027 $3,040 Register
Wed 17 Mar 2027 Fri 09 Apr 2027 Virtual Autumn 2027 $3,040 Register
Tue 08 Jun 2027 Thu 01 Jul 2027 Virtual Winter 2027 $3,040 Register
Mon 28 Jun 2027 Wed 21 Jul 2027 Virtual Winter 2027 $3,040 Register
Fri 23 Jul 2027 Tue 17 Aug 2027 Virtual Winter 2027 $3,040 Register
Thu 09 Sep 2027 Mon 04 Oct 2027 Virtual Spring 2027 $3,040 Register
Wed 29 Sep 2027 Fri 22 Oct 2027 Virtual Spring 2027 $3,040 Register
Tue 19 Oct 2027 Thu 11 Nov 2027 Virtual Spring 2027 $3,040 Register
Wed 08 Dec 2027 Fri 31 Dec 2027 Virtual Summer 2027 $3,040 Register
Tue 28 Dec 2027 Thu 20 Jan 2028 Virtual Summer 2027 $3,040 Register
Mon 17 Jan 2028 Wed 09 Feb 2028 Virtual Summer 2027 $3,040 Register
On-Campus training — face-to-face sessions at our training venues across Africa and beyond.
Showing all 497 sessions across 26 venues
Start End Venue Season Price Action
Tue 04 Aug 2026 Thu 27 Aug 2026 Pretoria, South Africa Winter 2026 $4,558 Register
Tue 04 Aug 2026 Thu 27 Aug 2026 Lagos, Nigeria Winter 2026 $8,932 Register
Wed 05 Aug 2026 Fri 28 Aug 2026 Johannesburg, South Africa Winter 2026 $7,042 Register
Thu 06 Aug 2026 Mon 31 Aug 2026 Mauritius Winter 2026 $8,284 Register
Fri 07 Aug 2026 Tue 01 Sep 2026 Cape Town, South Africa Winter 2026 $7,528 Register
In-House training — we bring the trainer to your organisation, tailored to your team.
Start End Delivery Season Price Action
Mon 14 Sep 2026 Wed 07 Oct 2026 Your Premises Spring 2026 $3,953 Register
Fri 09 Oct 2026 Tue 03 Nov 2026 Your Premises Spring 2026 $3,953 Register
Thu 29 Oct 2026 Mon 23 Nov 2026 Your Premises Spring 2026 $3,953 Register
Thu 17 Dec 2026 Mon 11 Jan 2027 Your Premises Summer 2026 $3,953 Register
Wed 20 Jan 2027 Fri 12 Feb 2027 Your Premises Summer 2026 $3,953 Register
Tue 23 Feb 2027 Thu 18 Mar 2027 Your Premises Summer 2026 $3,953 Register
Mon 08 Mar 2027 Wed 31 Mar 2027 Your Premises Autumn 2027 $3,953 Register
Fri 19 Mar 2027 Tue 13 Apr 2027 Your Premises Autumn 2027 $3,953 Register
Thu 25 Mar 2027 Mon 19 Apr 2027 Your Premises Autumn 2027 $3,953 Register
Wed 16 Jun 2027 Fri 09 Jul 2027 Your Premises Winter 2027 $3,953 Register
Tue 06 Jul 2027 Thu 29 Jul 2027 Your Premises Winter 2027 $3,953 Register
Mon 26 Jul 2027 Wed 18 Aug 2027 Your Premises Winter 2027 $3,953 Register
Fri 17 Sep 2027 Tue 12 Oct 2027 Your Premises Spring 2027 $3,953 Register
Thu 07 Oct 2027 Mon 01 Nov 2027 Your Premises Spring 2027 $3,953 Register
Wed 27 Oct 2027 Fri 19 Nov 2027 Your Premises Spring 2027 $3,953 Register
Thu 16 Dec 2027 Mon 10 Jan 2028 Your Premises Summer 2027 $3,953 Register
Wed 05 Jan 2028 Fri 28 Jan 2028 Your Premises Summer 2027 $3,953 Register
Tue 25 Jan 2028 Thu 17 Feb 2028 Your Premises Summer 2027 $3,953 Register
Training Discounts
Delegates Discount
5 3% off
10 6% off
15 9% off
20 12% off
25 15% off
30 18% off
50 30% off
75 35% off
100 40% off

3% off per 5 delegates, up to 40% for 100+

View Sessions & Register Get A Quote Download Course Brochure
Have an account?

Sign in to track your applications and manage your cart.

Related Courses

Other Manufacturing, Engineering and Technology courses at NQF level 3 learners on this page also viewed.

Browse the full Manufacturing, Engineering and Technology category for manufacturing, engineering and technology training programmes.
GET A QUOTE / APPLY COURSE CATALOGUE